OT - MgoBloggers Guide to Florence, IT
Hello fellow MGoBloggers. I have had success using this forum in getting some travel tips in the past and thought I'd come back to the well. I am heading to Florence, Italy on business next week. I arrive Saturday afternoon, and will have all day on Sunday to explore before heading to Prato, Italy Monday- Wed. I was hoping I could get some direction on things I must see, food recommendations, etc...
I was thinking about trying to get a round of golf in early morning Sunday but that's as far as I have gotten. Any direction from those who have been would be great.
I would recommend passing on the golf round and doing sightseeing instead.
Maybe the dude really, really can't go a day without golfing.
But yeah, golf in Tuscany? Not that special. The art though? Kind of a big deal. The food? The rest of the world attempts to copy it. The renaissance? It happened there.
Honestly though, if golfing in places where you visit is your thing and museums and sightseeing isn't your thing, to each his own.
If you run into trouble and need some emergency plumbing, I know of a great family run business.
I am going to Paris and Edinburgh in the first week of July. Would also like any recommendations to those cities as well.
Paris: best food we had was up in Montmartre at jardin de face. Septime was way overrated (I wouldn’t go back). Best advice for food is definitely to make sure that you have reservations if you don’t you’ll settle on some shit bistro that blows. Also surprisingly pizzeria populaire was amazing would recommend that place for sure.
To do: I loved the sunset boat tours, really enjoyed the sandemans free tour and the Versailles gardens tour and the musee L’Orangerie is amazing particularly if you like monet and Impressionism.
In Edinburgh go to Dishoom. It is an Indian cafe and they have the best breakfast (I highly recommend the bacon naan roll). Dinner is great there too. Howie's is a good place for dinner. Definitely get some haggis somewhere (and some whisky). The Scottish National Museum is free and very interesting. Climbing Arthur's Seat is a great hike.
Edinburgh is my favorite city outside the US, though I am definitely biased as a Scottish-American. The Royal Mile is pretty amazing to see. Have fun.
The Rodin Museum is really good, quiet and peaceful with a garden.
Sacre Coeur-Walking in and out of this grand Catholic structure into the a busy Muslim neighborhood that surrounds it is pretty cool.
The Pompidou is my favorite Modern Art Museum, don't just look at the old stuff in Paris.
Yeah, pass on the golf (and I love golf) If it’s not an historical course like ones in Scotland or something. Unless it’s something you’re doing like “I’m gonna golf in every country I visit” then I would skip. There’s too much to see in Italy.
Was there last year highly recommend the following:
1. Don’t golf there’s too much to see in that short time period.
2. Places to eat: in Modena if you can get a reservation (and can afford it) Osteria francescana is amazing. If you don’t want to pony up for that Zeb in Florence is the best pasta (Besides OF) that we’ve ever had. Can’t recommend it enough make sure to save room for the chocolate torte! Another great place to go for a quick snack panini is All'antico vinaio - panini, Via dei Neri, 76, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy best sandwich I’ve ever had make sure to go early.
3. Places to see: must get up to Michelangelo piazza for either sunrise or sunset best view in the city. Obviously the Duomo is phenomenal.
Second this: All'antico vinaio
Get a panini and a 3 euro glass of wine and sit on the curb before hopping back on the gulfstream...
Or get your panini, a small bottle of wine and go sit and get lost in Boboli Gardens.
I fully endorse Michelangelo piazza for sunset. My wife and I were in Italy a year ago and spent three nights in Florence. Spending a couple of hours on the steps at the Michelangelo piazza (across the Arno from the main part of Florence) while the sun set over the city may have been the highlight of our trip. It was like watching a painting with gradually changing lighting. There was a joyous crowd (mostly much younger than us) watching and enjoying the time with a glass of wine. I imagined that this was one thing that all young people who took the Grand Tour centuries ago would have done.
We had a great meal at La Buchetta in Florence. It was the only time during our two-week trip that we made dinner reservations. In fact, I would highly recommend just dropping in on any of many outdoor restaurants in Florence (or Venice, or Rome) and just trying it.
My wife highly recommends the Pappardelle Cinghiale, the national dish of Tuscany. It is a pasta dish with Wild Boar.
The Uffizi Gallery is great. We missed the Galileo Museum, which I regret. Enjoy the street music.
Have a great time.
Are you buying a summer home there?
We were there a few years ago and envy you - it is an amazing city. The biggest sights are the Duomo and the David statue; but the whole vibe of the city is pretty amazing and I'd recommend you give yourself time to walk around. The bridge at the Arno is really cool too (thanks to the German officer who disobeyed orders to blow it up during WW II). If you are into shopping/fashion there are some cool places but bring $$$$ (I noticed that the Italians were pretty fashionable dressers which only further accentuated the "early American schlub" look I was going for). Have a great time and safe travels.
Piazzale Michaelangelo has a great view of the city. The walk there isn't bad either.
The Duomo has a pretty facade and its size is impressive. The interior was a little underwhelming IMO.
There is a department store a few blocks away that has a cafe on the top of it with a roof deck. Its the highest vantage point you can get in the city that close to the Duomo. I didn't get any food there, but I grabbed a hot chocolate. I think it's called Caffe La Terrazza or something like that.
My favorite pizza place was south of the river. Called Gustapizza.
Also, I went to Accademia to see The David statue. Outside of that though the rest was generally uneventful. I've heard the Uffizi is better and more impressive.
Agree on the interior of Il Duomo. I'd recommend doing the bell tower instead or the Arnolfo Tower by Palazzo Vecchio.
Also, visit Palazzo Vecchio. Great statuary/museum there.
Also recommend Piazzale Michelangelo. Great walk, great view, especially at sunset. Also a nice gelateria (vivaldi) along the way, if it's warm.
While Ponte Vecchio is worth a walk across for the market, it's also worth crossing one of the other nearby bridges so you can get a view of the Ponte Vecchio.
South of Ponte Vecchio is Palazzo Pitti. It's basically a palace museum - wasn't as much into the inside (statues, paintings, rooms, dresses, etc.), but the grounds are amazing. It'll take a little while to get there, so you may want to pass on it.
Note that if you want to go see David, the line starts early and gets really long really fast.
We were there for 2.5 days, so I found that the Firenze pass was useful and a good value. May not be worth it for just a day, depending on what you want to do.
Third piazzale michelangelo, I could sit there for hours just looking over the city. Last time I was there I sat there from afternoon to night and watched as the buildings lit up as the sun set.
Agree totally with Andrew. Check on tickets for David ASAP - if i recall correctly, they are timed. If you want to avoid the lines, there are duplicates outside the Ufizzi and of course in Michelangelo Plaza. The real statue is damn impressive though.
There is also the Santa Croce church that is pretty impressive and has a leather school in the back where they sell their wares.
You won't have time for this but there are tours in the hills overlooking Florence at wineries that are outstanding.
You'll find you won't have enough time to see even a fraction of the city in under two days though.
IMO better than Piazzale Michaelangelo is heading up the steps a bit more to San Miniato https://goo.gl/maps/KivNRU9DBrpnrD8f7 Same view, fewer tourists.
The Uffizzi is magnificent, don’t miss it. Agree re Academia. Also, consider buying a Firenze Pass if you opt for sightseeing; it lets you skip the lines at most attractions, and is essential if you have limited time. Climb the bell tower next to the duomo. Beautiful views of the city in all directions.
Uffizi is one of the greatest museum in the world (not the same place as the David statue). Make sure you get the tickets before you go as the lines are insane.
Most of the small chapels and cathedrals all have significant art works inside. You can easily spend the day going from one to the next.
Ufizzi for the win. Went last fall and highly (highly) recommend a pre-arranged guided tour. You’ll get to skip the enormous line and see the highlights. We would’ve been completely overwhelmed without our guide.
One thing about Florence that is really great is how compact the old city is which simplifies sight seeing. There are several "must see" attractions in Florence. Likely more than you will have time for even if you don't go golfing.
The Duomo is the massive church. You can go up to the top by climbing between the two domes which I highly recommend.
The Ponte Vecchio is a medieval bridge filled with jewelry vendors. There is secret passage above it that can be visited by taking the correct tour but you probably don't have time for that.
Piazza della Signoria is the city square where the David used to be (now there is a replica) and people were burned at the stake during the Renaissance. On the square is the Palazzo Vecchio which is featured in one of the DaVinci Code movies. They used to execute people by throwing them out of the window of the tower. The original defenestration.
Galleria dell'Accademia is where the original David by Michelangelo is kept now. There is other stuff there but you are paying to see the David. It would be a real shame to miss one of the greatest works of art of Western civilization.
The Uffizi, which used to be a palace, is now a palatial art museum. It is one of the great art museums in the world but is also huge and takes most of a day to tour (unless you ignore most of the stuff.) There are lots of very famous paintings by the most famous Renaissance artists if you are into that sort of thing. Which I am but you may not be. If you want to go I highly recommend buying your tickets before you leave.
As far as food goes, just walking around the old city you will see many places that I'm sure are all excellent. One of the regional specialties is a t-bone steak cooked over an open fire. I did not get one because they were sold by weight and I was on a budget and not quite sure how much it would cost. I am sad that I made that choice. Also, buy all the gelato. Everywhere. Every place you pass will be better than the last.
This is a fabulous summary.
I will also second one of the other posters who recommended Gustapizza for a fast casual meal.
I am of the same opinion that you should take in what is specific to Florence vs. golfing. And like many others here, I love golf.
Florentine Steak is a thing. Look it up. You can find it many, many places. Essentially a Porterhouse with a specific seasoning. Recommended to be served rare. If you don't want a full one for yourself, our family of 5 all ordered salads and pasta courses, then all shared one Florentine Steak between us.
For the Accademia and the Uffize, we hired a private guide to shepherd us through. They can help with ticket access and more importantly knowing what to look for in what places. The sculpture, architecture, and sheer scope of (especially) the Uffizi means that what you get is a much more efficient experience. In our case, it was me, my wife, and my three children and that ratio was great for us. You can also do larger groups -- in most cases you'll get a personal headset and the guide will talk via that device. Less customizable but less expensive too.
My recommendations in order of importance:
- See David at the Accademia
- Visit the cathedral and do the Duomo Climb (note you pretty much need advance tickets which will have a time associated)
- Walk along the Arno and visit the Ponte Vecchio
- Tour the Uffizi
There are tons of great places to eat and as the poster above indicated, gelato is a must. You'll have burned the calories on the Duomo climb! Finally, drink wine with every lunch and dinner.
One caveat about climbing the duomo: if you are at all claustrophobic, it is pretty intense near the top where the curvature forces you to bend to the side to climb the last portion on narrow steps with two way traffic. The bell tower offers similar views, is a bit taller, and not as confined in the climb. Either is a good option.
I agree that the Bell Tower was a great climb and easier to get into (with a much shorter wait in line). We had climbed the dome of St. Peter's in Rome, so the Bell Tower in Florence offered a different alternative.
Generally agree with mvp and most of the above comments. My daughter spent a semester studying in Florence. We visited her while she was in Florence and our priorities would be:
1. Tour the Uffizi (best to get a private tour guide)
2. See David at the Accademia
3. Walk along the Arno, visit the Ponte Vecchio plus the main Palazzo’s & just walk around town
4. Take a cooking class (Trip Advisor has a list)
5. Visit the cathedral and do the Duomo Climb
Enjoy!
A lot of places make Florentine style steak but a lot of people swear that the actual cow is what matters the most. And typically that means a Chianina cow raised only in the region. Sort of like Kobe beef in Japan is a specific breed.
The best Florentine steaks are aged 15 to 21 days and served pretty rare, both of which is hard to have done right in the US.
The authentic way of doing it is getting more popular and can be found in the US, but it's not at all ubiquitous and usually costs about $150 if you can find it aged. And even that isn't usually not from the same breed of cow.
I was just there last January. Everything above by Imafreak1 is absolutely spot on. I really would not disagree with one recommendation. Be care about the steaks. We were told by our guide that they simply sear one side, then the other, then serve them (bloody??) They will not budge from this delicacy as cooking the steaks any further will ruin them. They come from the historic Etruscan breed of white bulls/cows which have been preserved since the Etruscans ruled the Tuscan region (Etruria)
You won't be able to do it all in one day, but you could choose a couple things to really enjoy in a day. I would probably add the Borgello museum to this list of options. It has a number of priceless renaissance sculptures by Michelangelo, Donatello, Ghiberti, et al.
Enjoy your visit...it is an amazing city! And by all means eat all the Gelato you can!
As with everyone else, I recommend skipping the golf.
If I could only see 1 thing in Florence again it would Michelangelo's David. By the time I saw The David I'd already seen quite a bit of Italian art and everybody knows what it looks like, but seeing it in person was completely different. I looked at it for 30 minutes and could've gone longer but the little museum was closing. Absolutely breathtaking.
And that doesn't even get into Michelangelo's Prisoners (statues he started but didn't finish). I wish I'd had more time to look at them but they line the walls in the corridor leading up to The David. I'd intended to look at the David then go back to the Prisoners but I couldn't stop looking at The David.
Buy tickets beforehand to skip the line: http://www.accademia.org/
I'd recommend checking out Rick Steves' site for Florence: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/italy/florence
The tour I saw The David on was a Rick Steves tour and almost all of his recommendations for Italy were great. Take some time to just walk around and experience the people, eat somewhere that has little-to-no English on the signs, and drink some great wine.
I agree that it is imperative you make every effort to see the David. It may seem cliche, the lines might be long, etc. but when you get up near the statue it has an almost mystical power. First, it's massive, and second it literally seems to breathe of kinetic energy. You can walk around and around and it is breathtaking.
One thing not mentioned is there is excellent shopping for leather goods in Firenze (or at least there was a few decades ago). Budget for a pair of handmade Italian loafers or a leather jacket. One regret I have from my trip there was that I did not make the effort to take the short trip to the town of Siena, which I understand is about an hour away. A friend of mine called it the most beautiful city he's ever seen.
As you might be able to guess from my avatar, I love Roman history. So when I visited Italy Rome was my favorite place. But a highly unexpected close second was Siena. On paper it shouldn't be that amazing but it simply was. My most well traveled friend (he's been to probably 40+ countries now) recommended it to me and I'm so grateful he did. That said, if you go to Siena I strongly recommend spending at least 1 night there so you can see the moon over the piazza. I may or may not go back to Venice but I absolutely WILL go back to Siena.
Regarding the leather in Florence, it is high quality IF you look past the cheap street vendors but instead go to a well established building. Don't be afraid to leave and come back - whatever you're thinking of buying will still be there. If they're pressuring you to buy now, then just leave. I bought a leather messenger bag from Florence and although it was expensive I expect it to last for decades. Oh, and do some haggling. It's awkward and difficult but if you paid the list price then you paid too much.
Siena is amazing. And also highly recommend staying at least a night for another reason:
Siena is the home of the Palio which is a horse race run around the piazza del campo (I'm sure you know this, but mentioning it for others). It's the namesake of the Italian restaurant the Palio in Ann Arbor.
Anyway, each neighborhood, called a contrada, fields a horse in the race. It's a huge deal in the town. What most people don't know is that each week of the summer, a different contrada hosts basically a week-long block party. That is the thing to find at night.
When I was there, my friend and I had just finished up dinner on the piazza and were sitting around enjoying a gelato when we noticed people kept going down one particular street after they finished dinner. So we of course had to see where they were going. Walked about 4 blocks and came upon the most lively street party. And it was just some random Tuesday night or something. Makeshift bars set up outside, people dancing and soooo friendly. When you get off the beaten path, locals are usually so excited to see visitors and are happy to talk about their city/neighborhood (whereas, it's the opposite in cities that are overrun with tourists - locals are understandably annoyed by the throngs of tourists generally).
So for anyone visiting Siena in the summer, ask locals which contrada is hosting the party that night/week and join in!
Also, random note that I just remembered about that night. The only other American at the party, to my knowledge was John Beilein's neice, Bridget, who was living abroad at the time, teaching (or maybe learning Italian?).
Food tips: Best quick sandwich I had on a 10 day trip was at Antico Noe. For Gelato it's hard to beat Edoardo.
I was there for only a couple of days, and it’s been over a decade. I still have some silk ties that I bought in the market there, and I probably still have some pounds from all the gelato I ate. If you have time to squeeze in a day trip, and you prefer walking outside museums to walking in them, I’d recommend a trip to Lucca.
Have a fantastic trip!
It's been many years since I was in Florence and I still think about the sandwiches at I Fratellini. It is a literal hole-in-the-wall a block or two north of the Uffizi. Get a sandwich and a glass of wine and enjoy.
If you do museums (David, the Uffizi) PLAN AHEAD because the lines are bonkers as hell. Otherwise skip the museums and do some things you can do in a short time. That would mainly be churches. The Duomo, accompanying tower, and Baptistry are all fantastic. The view of Florence from the bell tower at the Duomo is unrivaled. Nobody has mentioned Santa Croce, which is a must-see IMO because of the tombs that are there. Galileo, Michelangelo, Macchiavelli, and Rossini are all buried in the church there. Absolute requirement.
I agree with all others. Skip the golf. You can golf anywhere; Florence is one of the truly titanic cities in the world when it comes to history. It and Rome are the two epicenters of Italian history and in some sense, European history. Our tour guide when I was there kept casually pointing things out like "this is where Dante was born" (that is another museum, which may have shorter lines than the more famous ones) and "this is the house where the Mona Lisa was painted."
Aside to MaizeAndBlueWahoo - You don't perchance live in Pensacola? They have a baseball team that is a Minnesota Twins affiliate nicknamed the Blue Wahoos.
No....my username refers to my split allegiance between U-M and UVA.
Second your Santa Croce suggestion. Too bad those Florentines disavowed Dante before he was cool, otherwise he'd have his tomb there as well instead of just a monument (with his bones having been hidden in some other, distant monastery).
I was there on Sunday. Ate at Il Barretto, while I’m not necessarily an expert, thought it was pretty great and not very expensive. Didn’t think I would care about the David but it was amazing.
I recommend playing Assassins Creed II until your eyes bleed prior to your trip. Your walks through the streets, and along the rooftops, of Firenze will be much more eventful if you assume you are a renaissance assassin.
Had a great meal at Ristorante Parione, near Ponte Vecchio last summer. Little hole in the wall, got the recommendation from our hotel.
If you want Italian craft beer hit up Fermento Firenze which is near the Basilica San Lorenzo, some pretty good US style craft beers made in Italy, also has good food. I had a Lampredetto panini there which is a local delicacy.
Overall some of the finest artwork in the world is located within a short walk in Florence.
The cathedral is fantastic. Walking to the top of the Duomo is a one in a lifetime type thing, but its a very strenuous hike(and you need to get tickets in advance)...The Baptistery, Cathedral, and Museum of the Cathedral are all worth doing.
The sculpture David by Bernini in the Academy..there isnt much else there to see....but David is worth seeing on its own.
The Uffuzi has Birth of Venus and Spring by Botticelli, but some of the early religious art is fantastic as well.
Definitely worth more than a day....but skip the golf
Dude! Parione is GREAT. One of the best meals I have ever had. My wife is quite enthusiastic about good food and was so obviously happy it attracted the attention of the owner who came over and talked for a few minutes.
This place is a must for anyone in Florence.
Trattoria Sostanza for bistecca alla fiorentina- basically, it's a giant hunk of cow. That you order rare. Do this. It's good.
Also recommend All'antico Vinaio, for sandwich, and if you have the means, Osteria fransiscana. Friends just ate there last week, and said it was the best meal they've ever eaten anywhere.
Some tips gleaned from my honeymoon there a few years back:
Gelato
• Gelateria Della Passera - My favorite in Florence if not all of Italy
• Vestri - Great chocolate and gelato
• Perché No
Restaurant
• La Pentola dell Oro - Traditional Tuscan food (like 100s of years old recipes)
Artisan
Paolo Carandini - Borgo Allegri, 7 r, 50122 Firenze, Italy - Amazing work in parchment
Other
• Make sure to check out the Mercato Centrale (the main market) as well as some of the other neighborhoods.
• I also recommend when you are on the other side of the river to check out Basilica San Miniatoa al Monte. Around dusk you can listen to the monks perform Gregorian chants.
Don't fly all the way to Florence and spend your one free day on an effing golf course. That's almost like going to New Orleans and wanting to only eat fast food. The ONLY time where something like that is justified is if you are flying into Edinburgh for business and happen to have the next day off, so you decide to go play a round at St. Andrews. Beyond that, just skip it, man. You can golf anywhere.
You can always hit up the sights like the Duomo (beware the pickpocketers and gypsies), Accademia and Uffizi. Those are timeless. If you want to bring some cool stuff home for the family, go to the Leather School in Santa Croce. It's a little difficult to find but its worth it. Better than the cheap knockoff crap you find in the stores, and better prices for the real thing. My wife and I went there for a few hours and knocked out a lot on our Christmas shopping list when we were on our honeymoon. I think the prices are better because they're being made by actual students learning at the school. Going to the Piazza Della Repubblica is really cool too. You can find a lot of great street artists there. We had one woman draw a picture of one of our dogs for maybe 30-40 euro, and she did an extremely good job.
Restaurants, I'd definitely recommend Ristorant Parione. We sat down in the wine cellar and the food was phenomenal. Great service, too. We didn't get their Bistecca Fiorentina (which is a Florence staple), but we had it one other night at a place I can't remember the name of. Either way, I'd recommend finding a place to go have that as a meal. Whoever is local that you're meeting for work in Florence will be able to tell you where to go that's got a price within reason.
This bar in Florence gets rave reviews
And bar name checks out too!
Please don’t spend your time golfing.
You have a day with the greatest works of the Italian Renaissance at your fingertips. Some of these have already been mentioned. Unfortunately, you just won’t have time to take in Florence in one day.
It really depends on what you want to do. Hit the highlights and deal with the crowds, or get a more intimate experience where massive tour groups don’t go.
Everyone converges on the Uffizi, Accademia (where David is) and the Duomo — and for good reason. You could easily make a day out of these three.
If you had to pick one, I highly recommend climbing the Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore). Reserve a time beforehand. Going through the cathedral itself is not essential, especially if you have a tight schedule.
The following will either have very short lines, or no lines at all. In lieu of the Uffizi and Accademia, you could soak in plenty of tremendous art at all of these locations.
- Duomo Museum: Lorenzo Ghiberti’s original Baptistery bronze doors are restored and housed here. This museum is a gem. Michelangelo’s Deposition of Christ is also on site. David gets all the love, but this sculpture is one of his last and argurably his finest.
- The Baptistery: Next door to the Santa Maria del Fiore. It’s worth dropping in for the trippy Last Judgement mosaic on the ceiling. The bronze doors on the exterior are knock offs.
- Bargello: No crowds. You can stand next to Donatello’s David. Brunelleschi and Ghiberti’s original Baptistery competition panels are here.
- San Lorenzo and the Medici Chapel: Ground zero for the Medici. The New Sacristy features multiple Michelangelos. The Laurentian Library is also on the grounds of San Lorenzo, which is an awesome church designed by Brunelleschi.
- Brancacci Chapel in Santa Maria del Carmine: (across the Arno) Breathtaking Masaccio fresco cycle, with some assists from Lippi.
- Santa Maria Novella: Ghirlandaio, Masaccio and Lippi frescoes.